Monday 6 April 2015

My Impressions - Tony Big Bikes of Chiang Mai - Adieu and Best of Luck

My initial plan was to ride the Loop West of Chiang Mai and planning was done for same. The plan did not fall through due to lack of riders from India and thankfully was forced to identify other avenues. Had read a lot about riding in North Thailand hills and to tell you the truth, it is part of my top ten places to ride before I retire from biking. Had done five rides of my bucket list and if this was possible it would be the sixth tick off my ticker.
Got reference of Tony Big Bikes in Chiang Mai through excellent reviews from net, approached them, increased my budget a bit and everything fell in place.

Bike - as my plan was to ride with Rekha as my pillion, it was very important to ride a good stable, powerful yet comfortable bike. These guys offered me Honda 500 CBX which was initially rejected by me for a more tourer kind of bike. Duncan promised me excellent pillion comfort and stability and Jeff acknowledged the power and ride viability. Reached Chiang a Mai and first day only took it for a spin. First alone and then with Rekha. I found the bike very stable, with excellent power for short bursts and Rekha found it comfortable as pillion. We decided to stick with recommendations and agreed on the bike. It proved a blessing, as I never felt short of power even on 14 degree uphill slopes, found it light to handle on curves and once got the hang of letting engine ride the downhills as advised by Jeff, found it smooth running bike. Sitting is comfortable for both rider and pillion and gears changing quite smooth.

Accessories - These guys had promised us riding jackets, helmets and gloves with own arrangements for lower protection gears. I got my own communication device and after trying available helmets, which are nearly 20 of them, fixed communicators. Chosen jackets were dry cleaned for us within a day. We were carrying our own riding boots, Rekha had her lower protection wear and I got an old pair from the shop. We were good to go, though riding with borrowed helmets gave us our share of trouble, as we have got accustomed to our own helmets.

Route - This route is all it promises and much more. Where else can one get desolate hill roads in perfect condition, with frequent up and downs and its share of turns and curves. We rode through big towns, small towns, villages, hamlets, jungles, border roads, highways and what have you. One complete all encompassing route with something for appeal for everyone. The route crosses some historic places and with expertise of Jeff at helm we went through amazing hill roads, reached back and beyond roads at end of country where we had to run back and also did not miss the beautiful locations. Jeff also ensured we got right dose of touristee stuff for memoirs and pictures.

Arrangements - I would fail in my duty if I do not mention this aspect of the ride. Hotels booked all along the route were excellent with wifi and other comforts as required. Jeff took care to stop frequently for hydration breaks where it was not that one can have only one thing but as you want a and like its. Lunch breaks were without fail in best restaurants enroute with smiling hostesses to receive us. Evenings were generally left to own selves but except one evening all days we got together and went to the finest and best location, offcourse with recommendations of Jeff, and he was gracious enough to always lead the pack. He made our local tourism experience further enhanced with his knowledge of previous rides and his proficiency in Thai language. He was always willing to sponsor first round and it became a race to pay for one's own food. His advice regarding night bazaars and pubs were spot on.

Tony Big Bikes - One legit business I have experienced after long. Owned and run by Jeff and Duncan, these guys run a tight shop with many options of bikes and scooters. All vehicles are registered with paperwork, they provide sane advice and are helpful as required. All their employees and partners can speak English. They promised us N number of things and in the final tally I believe they gave us N plus few within same budget we had decided upon. Would recommend them blindly to any and all and hope to ride other rides with them.

Thailand - Thai people continue to amaze us. This was Rekha's second trip and fourth for me. The hospitality,kindness, lack of deceit, no malice and smiling faces is the constant reminder of their culture. One needs to go beyond normal tourist places to see and experience their true culture. Thai roads are well maintained in most parts, with generally people having good sense of driving. Lane driving, without horns and giving other the right of way is common place here.

I have to mention Sabuy Guesthouse, run by Tee, a small, perpetually booked place near Tony Big Bikes. They had arranged our accommodation there and we came back after the ride to stay here only. A cute, boutique, clean and well managed staying option with feel of staying in house. All smiles and ever helpful.......

Group - We were very apprehensive of composition of the riding group, as larger group has its own dynamics. We were also not sure what, how will other riders like or dislike. It was extremely nice to ride with Adam and Reeta, who generally liked same things as us and we got along well......Never ending stories of Adam with repertoires from Rekha had all of us amused.

Made some new and good friends, Jeff, Duncan, Adam and Reeta......hope to be in touch and ride together soon. May wind on your shields be always pleasant......

I close this chapter of my trip with appreciation for Tony Big Bikes and thanks to Rekha for bearing with my moods, as I call them riders moods, and continuing to partner me on my personal quests. Than,s to God for giving us this opportunity. 

Hoping for Asian Highway to open early through Myanmar, for a future ride through all these connected countries on my Royal Enfield. 

As I say, 'Follow your Dreams - Always Dream Big'.................


Signing off till next trip.........Gagan and Rekha......

Chiang Mai Tourism

Chiang Mai needs over a week for proper tourism. There are elephant camps, tiger Kingdom, minimum four temples worth a visit, night bazaar, weekend bazaar, adventure events like bungee jumping and many more things. We had decided to keep our visit restricted to best of few but were assaulted by the heat. It had gone amazingly hot, more so after riding on hills and staying in hills for last year or so.

We, who come from a HOT country were with our tongues out for water, forehead full of sweat beads and face raw from wiping sweat......and this was supposed to be better that Bangkok. Locals were also astonished with a few Thai's known to have swooned in the heat wave.

After a good long nights sleep we lazed around and finally reached Tony Big Bikes by mid noon, and decided not to take BMW 800 GS as planned earlier but took one of the Honda 150 cc scooter. Duncan promised that it would take us up the hill and so it did. Relief of driving gear less scooty in traffic after driving a beast for last week was palpable.

We headed for Wat Doi Suthep and on reaching decided not to try the steps in the heat but opted for cable car or elevator as you would call it. This is one of the holiest pagoda in Chiang Mai with many Buddha postures including one of Emerald Buddha. Took our blessings from the monk on duty, prayed to almighty for a successful trip and headed back. 


Sleeping Buddha

Emerald Buddha


In all his glory


One for the tourist moment


Dance by local children.....


Start of the steps

By end of the afternoon we decided to hit a mall for some aircon and visited Maya Lifestyle for our lunch. The heat forced us inside and we cancelled rest of our plans and just hit the room for dog sleep. Evening was spent in company of our new friends in Tiger Kingdom Restaurant, this was more of a good bye meeting for us as we had our flights booked for next day. 


Everyone busy with their menus in the restaurant.....

Made some good friends and excellent memories and off we go from Chiang Mai.

Offcourse I forgot to mention that I did visit Wat Chedi Luang the next day before moving to airport....
Wat Chedi Luang from inside

The old pagoda behind the new building....

Saturday 4 April 2015

Chiang Rai Tourism Day - Fifth Day

This was a spare day kept as optional day for either free day or Chiang Rai tourism. Both of us, Adam and me, opted for tourism.

We started after ten in the morning, needing late start after binge drinking previous night. Our first stop was at White Temple. 

This temple designed and constructed by one man depicts man's journey/ path to heaven, with pitfalls  in between which would lead you to hell. (My take on the design without any reference to books or material is as mentioned ahead, no pun or bad feelings to any one). 
The gateway of the path to nirvana or heaven is guarded by ferocious looking guards, placed there to knock off undeserving people. Once you cross them you are welcomed by devis/ fairies which guide to to the inner sanctum, where true nirvana is there in its simplicity. The temple was damaged during earthquake a few years back and restoration work was in progress.
After White Temple we visited the wishing well in same sanctuary, with its lotus inside well and coins falling in the lotus head guaranteeing your wish to come true. Hanging of prayers in metallic trees nearby was also magical.

White Temple in all its glory

One for the memoirs

Another Golden praying wall near white temple

Souls in Pit before reaching Nirvana


Path to Heaven guarded by Guardians

We were here......

Guardian to the Pathway

Path to Nirvana.....

Devis welcoming you to Heaven

We are across the hell pit......

Walls of inner sanctum

Another view

Lotus in the Wishing Well

Tree of Prayers......

Wishing Well

This is the Toilet Complex.....amazing


After White Temple we moved for a buffet lunch with various Thai food on display. Post lunch we proceeded for promised visit to the Black Village, the anti thesis of the previous pristine white. This is place was constructed by a self styled guru with massive following. The basic concept what I could gather was that there is nothing in life which is not good. The basic theme being Black, to me an u trained eye it resembled a lot with few of our Indian tribes and some houses I saw in Indonesia. We'll to each his own......also saw giant pythons and sleeping owl...good place to spend few hours though.

Boat in water

Log Sofa

People listen to the Bossman......

What's the problem......

There were many places with No Entry sign boards

Musical instruments and skulls on display


Sleeping Buddha

Guardian of the Temple

House of somebody.....

Temple in its glory

Black design.....looks similar

Assorted things in basement


Sleeping Owl, where did I see it last.....


House of Village


Inner Temple Seating

Horns out of my shoulders....


One big Croc


Main Temple....

We were there


Main Temple Entrance


After this our last pit stop was a visit to Hill Tribes of North Thailand. A place where one can see and meet five main hill tribes of Northern Thailand. The place was touristee to the hilt with tribe folks having shops to sell their wares and women sitting in traditional dresses in front of their huts. Interesting part were two, first the traditional dance of Ankh Tribe quite akin to our Mizo one and second was witnessing Long Necks.....