Golden Triangle Ride: Chiang Rai to Fang

DSixth day of ride was supposed to be a short but technically challenging ride with higher gradients of slope and sharper turns. We planned to move from Chiang Rai to Fang. Departure was planned for morning ten.

Route - Northward to Mae Fah Luang on Highway 1 and then moving Westwards to Doi Mae Salong. Proceed to Thaton then on Route 1314 covering the Doi Laem loop before arriving in Fang.

Distance Planned - 190 Kms.

Ride

Initial part of the ride was through traffic on Highway 1 but in less than an hour Jeff took us off the highway and we proceeded on medium clip along the village and hill roads to Mae Fah Luang. Though we had riden Southwards from Mae Sai through Mae Fah Luang while going to Chiang Rai on fourth day, this route was slightly different and more scenic with greater turns. Late morning we rode to an Thai Army Camp on border of Myanmar and stood at the view point overlooking Myanmar.

Mid noon we looped to visit old camp site of drug lord Khun Sa near Thoed Thai moving on Route 1334. This used to be camp location of Khun Sa in Thailand and has a small museum with his living quarters, soldiers barracks and VIP guest rooms. Short halt as were already late for lunch and we started for Doi Mae Salong. This is tea county of Thailand and is inhabitated with Chinese people. Story goes that their ancestors fought against Chinese party and were given Thai citizenship. It's like a big China town in middle of Thailand Hills. People speak fluent Thai and also a bit of Mandarin with Chinese artefacts and other tribal souveneir on sale.

The approach to Doi Mae Salong was challenging with sharp turns and highe gradients. We were riding along smoothly when suddenly after a turn I saw Adam and Reeta sprawled on the road with their bike to one side. Rushed to the location, first approached Adam with Rekha looking after Reeta. We gathered that they were generally not injured. Tried to lift the bike to clear the road and realised its heaviness. This 190 odd kgs of bike lying on road with about 8 degree gradient was not one persons job. Rekha lifted from uphill side and me from downhill side and saw capability of Rekha pumped up with adrenaline rush. We got the bike up, got it to a side and I got down checking Adam while Rekha tried calling Jeff. By now Adam was reasonably okay with just his right ankle hurting. We had first hand experience of Thai hospitality when first car crossing us stopped, they called ambulance, assisted us in everyway possible, marked the road for accident for oncoming vehicles, offered to take us to hospital and all. Every vehicle crossing stopped to offer help, this all took about five odd minutes by which time Jeff realising no rider behind him had reached back. Immediate relief in all of us, he took over, we got Adam to roadside shade, support vehicle was called, balm applied on ankle of Adam, Reeta checked for injuries. While waiting for support vehicle the bike was repaired by Jeff, minor damages of break lever and foot rest broken. Support vehicle reached us within twenty odd minutes and by then even ambulance arrived. Meanwhile Adam was not hurting too bad, a relative term as per him only, and he decided not to miss Chinese lunch planned in Doi Mae Salong, this also gave us all a breather that injury is not very intense, or it's bearable injury; again relative to Adam's pain accepting capability.

We had lovely lunch in a typical Chinese restaurant owned by Ms 'Lovely Smile' to quote a friend. Food was great as promised what with additional care lavished on Adam by all waitresses. Post a longish lunch break, Adam decided to head for Fang hospital in the support car for medical check up and we continued our ride.

The third bike was now being ridden by Bas, one of the youngster in support staff, and I became number two in order of riding with Jeff leading and Bas bringing the up the rear. Doi Mae Salong loop was crossed carefully by all riders, as always happens post a fall in the group, our collective speed reduced a bit. More with caution from Jeff to keep me in his rear view mirror and my self ordained caution in down hills. We hit the highway and rode at a fast clip onwards till we stopped for holy blessings at Thaton Monestry. Short break for pictures and prayers followed by suggestion by Jeff to take another loop along Thai Border instead of main highway. We jumped at the recommendation and followed him along small hill road moving through villages criss crossing jungle tracks used earlier for smuggling during the golden era of drugs. This loop increased our distance but took us through some amazing country side and jungles reminding me of Mizoram.

By early evening we hit main highway again and rode onto Fang, a sleepy little town, by six in the evening. Most of the township was closed as they were celebrating birthday of one of the princess. Checked in to a cute, small hotel in town called Phumanee, changed and then met Adam and Reeta who were back from the hospital. He had suffered minor ankle trouble due to twisting or some ligaments injury. Adam with his soft cast and riding the trunk of the support car led us to the pub for drowning his pain in liquid fire.

Drinks and food merged with pool table swept us closer to midnight and we bid adieu for a nights rest. By end of the day we had riden nearly 220 Kms.

Impressions - This was by far the most technical portion of the ride moving through most back and beyond roads with least movement through highways. Visiting some way off places which are not part of the normal tourist circuit enhanced the experience and putting Adam's word here, his fall provided us with more adventure than we had planned for. Roads in a portion of the ride reminded me of Indian roads with pot holes and loose pebbles on them, however overall Thailand roads even in back and beyond are amazingly well maintained when compared with most of Asia. Thai people continue to amaze me with their spirit of hospitality and kindness, they epitomise so many good in their culture which makes a trip to Thailand amazing. Riding with a lead as Jeff enhances the overall experience, what with his intimate knowledge of area, his calmness and smiling face in every way he handles things and his spirit of adventure and identifying requirements of people riding with him. Once he knew that all of us disliked highways and liked back and beyond places that was the mode of our journey.

These guys kept us in best of the hotels, food and drinks were planned in best locations and cultural and tourism guidance was available for complete duration. Generous host that he is, his offers to sponsor drinks at most of the places had us bowled over. Amazing ride made marvellous with company further enhanced with hospitality and knowledge of Jeff, made this one of the best rides of my lifetime. Sleep enduced drowsiness had only one thing in our (Rekha and me) collective sub conscious; the ride would finish tomorrow........

Picture Gallery (Not in any particular sequence)